For three hours we were cocooned in our metal shell hurtling through a
landscape half hidden by cloud. (Our faithful Fiat Punto is still with
us!) A hint of Spring now and then, yellow balls of forcythia, golden
daffodils and new born lambs. Finally we arrive in Vals, a tiny village
and thermal baths. The hotel is a made up of 3 huge white and blue
modern buildings set among the lanky pine trees. I am trasported
silently up 7 floors in a silver box, a super advanced lift, and walk
out onto a sky blue carpet across a bridge suspended between 2
buildings.
Treading on velvety slippers we make our way to the
thermal baths on the sixth floor. Peter Zumthor, the celebrated Swiss
architect has created the most spititual and zen-like recreation water
area. The simple and pure lines using local grey/black stone contrast
with the jade colour of the water. You slip into the silky warm water
and can stay outside for hours, never feeling cold. The mountain slopes
now just a little patchy with the last vestiges of snow offer a tranquil
backdrop to the place. You can pick out a local walking a dog but
otherwise there is very little movement. The whole experience is about
slowing down....
After dinner in Chessy restaurant we dived under our
soft sheets to avoid the chilly air...we were in a peaceful state but
turning on CNN we heard the news that the Americans, French and British
would support an no-fly zone over Libya with military action....
The
next day the sun shone and we explored the little village, admiring the
delicate wooden façades of the houses, made with wooden fish like
scales! Our hotel Alpina turned out to have been restored by another
famous architect called Caminada. I would definitely recommend it
perhaps more so than staying at the thermal baths as our room was much
larger and more comfortable. The village had just one baker and one
cheese shop but with such a choice of homemade yogurt! You could hear
the goats bleating outside and taste the wonderful cheeses. There was
even fresh milk straight from the cows! Definitely Switzerland has some
amazing brown breads and so you can imagine our car was laden with
goodies from fresh butter to local honey and cheeses too! We were lucky
it wasn't summer yet as we had quite a way to drive back and no cool
box..